07 May Bengal’s Terracotta Wonders
Where faith and history and art intertwine
Bengal’s terracotta temples are unique to this part of the country.
Unlike most of India’s temples, which are constructed using different stones – like sandstone, granite or marble – the temples in Bengal are built of brick and then adorned with the most beautiful terracotta ornamentation.
The reasons for the use of brick and terracotta are obvious; Bengal is a riverine land and has an abundance of clay, while access to stone is difficult.
These terracotta temples are sprinkled across southern Bengal, mainly in the districts of Burdwan, Bankura, Midnapore, Nadia. Though they are also found in neighbouring Bangladesh and Jharkhand.
Interestingly, most of the terracotta temples were built between the 17th and 19th centuries, in the era when the Bengal nawabs ruled much of the area and the Europeans had just started making their trading presence felt.
A symbol of the region’s craftmanship and artistic traditions
While the architecture of terracotta temples could vary between the different Bengali architectural styles; like the Chala style (Do chala or Aath Chala, with pointed-arch roofs inspired by the local thatched hut roofing) or Rekha Deul with its tall Shikhara-like ridged roofs, or Ek Ratna and Panch Ratna…what they all have in common are the elaborate terracotta plaques that cover the walls and tell the most amazing stories.
All sorts of themes are covered, from the religious to the secular; including the role of the river, business interests and commercial aspects, the dress culture, social settings and cultural themes.
As I saw for myself when visiting an exquisite cluster of terracotta temples at Sribati, just a short drive from Kolkata.
An example of the “Ek Ratna” temple style, with a single pinnacle roof, the walls adorned with terracotta artThe little-known, little-visited hidden gems of Sribati
To get to the small village of Sribati, about 120 kilometres from Kolkata, we drove through idyllic rural countryside, with the road cutting like a black ribbon through the verdant green. The land was as flat as a pancake, with bright green patches of paddy fields stretching as far as one could see.
As we entered the village, an imperious duck slowed us down, waddling along the middle of the road despite much honking and hand waving, refusing to vacate and give right of way.
Sribati’s villagers were clearly aware of the treasure in their midst, and pointed us towards the terracotta temples. We parked our car and walked down a narrow lane, past ancient wooden doors that looked like they could tell a thousand stories. In a while, we reached a cluster of three beautifully preserved temples standing side by side within a small compound; the Chandreshwar, Bholanath and Bisheshwar temples.
These temples were built in the early 1800s by the Chandra family, who had amassed their wealth as part of the salt trade with the East India Company. The patronage of affluent merchant families in building temples was widespread at the time, as an emerging entrepreneurial class sought to gain identity and social respect. Members of the Chandra family apparently still lived in the village.
The riverine trade that created the Chandra’s wealthI know the term “hidden gem” is bandied about often. But rarely does it fit a description as aptly as Sribati’s Terracotta Temples.
Every inch of the temple’s walls were covered with richly carved terracotta panels, that depict a bewildering variety of scenes. And even though I had read extensively about terracotta temple styles, the sheer density of the terracotta ornamentation on display at Sribati was astonishing to take in.
I must mention that I was visiting Sribati with two very eminent friends. One was a leading history professor from Burdwan, and the other a heritage walks specialist from Kolkata. But, so overwhelmed were we with the images and themes in front of us, that we were like kids at a candy store who couldn’t get enough; clicking a thousand photographs, seeking different angles, pointing out what we had found to each other.
Sribati’s (broad minded) photo gallery of brilliance
I was struck by the number of European subjects on these panels; individuals wearing coats and hats, carrying walking sticks, and women in frilly gowns. It clearly reflected a time when the English, Dutch, and Portuguese traders had penetrated the hinterland and become part of the cultural setting.
Another interesting aspect which I didn’t expect was the soldiers being depicted in varying styles: Hindu, Muslim, European.
A sahib with his coat and hat 
All Soldiers; Muslim with a beard and robes, Hindu in a dhoti, European in a hat
Uniformed European soldiers on the march
A veiled Muslim lady reading her (holy?) book
Everyday life: merchants on horses, women on balconies, villagers watching the world go by There were other flourishes that caught my eye. The Bholanath temple had a Shivalinga made of white marble, behind which was a wall panel of Lord Krishna playing the flute, depicting a co-existence of Shaiva and Vaishnava that demonstrates the broad-minded attitude of the patrons.
Another example of this tolerance was on the eastern wall of the same temple, which had a false doorway in an entirely Islamic design.
The co-existence of Shaiva and Vaishnava traditions: a Shivlinga with the depiction of Lord Krishna at the back 
The Bholanath temple’s false doorway is entirely Islamic in designThe star of the show; a lady peers out at me from behind the temple door…
The star of the show for me was a panel on the Bisheshwar temple, which was the last of these temples to be built in1836.
Beside the entrance was a female face peering through the door, as if trying to catch a glimpse of the outside world.
The star of the show; a lady peers out of the doorway, taking in the world outsideI had read that this face may represent Annapurna Chandra, the patroness of the temple. Was it her?
What was she trying to convey? Was it the curiosity of the housewife about the world that exists beyond the walls? …Or the tension between the “ghor” and the “bahir”?… or the restlessness to push the at boundaries of patriarchy?
As an image, it was both poignant and stunning.
Amazingly, these terracotta marvels are easily accessed from Kolkata
As an excursion, a deep dive into this wonderful terracotta world is just a short day-trip from Kolkata.
In case you have the time (and the curiosity), I recommend a visit. It will be investing in a day that will forever change your knowledge and understanding of an architectural style that is unique to Bengal. And of a culture that comfortably embraces different belief systems and approaches. You will not be disappointed.
How to get here:
- Sribati is about 120 kms from Kolkata. Cross the Vidyasagar Setu towards Howrah and drive along the NH19 towards Burdwan. Turn on to the GT road before Burdwan. The drive should take about 3 hours.
- In Sribati, park on the village road near the temples and cover the rest on foot (the evening sun is the best time for photos)
- You could combine a visit to Sribati with also visiting Kalna – about an hour from Sribati – that is known for its magnificent 108 Shiva temples.
Information:
- Free entry to all monuments
- Limited toilet facilities
- No wheelchair access
